Laduma Ngxokolo showcases ‘Siyi Kulture’ collection in bold cultural statement

Dark clouds and persistent thunderstorms could not take away the shine from the brightly dressed guests at the Maxhosa Festival, hosted at the Toadbury Country Hotel this past weekend.

Designer Laduma Ngxokolo hosted the fourth edition of the festival, showcasing his winter collection titled Siyi Kulture (“We Are Culture”). Almost all attendees honoured the theme, wore a mix of his latest and classic designs.

The festival was a well-curated exhibition of the brand, celebrating music, art and culture. It comes shortly after Maxhosa made headlines for its presence at Paris Fashion Week, where models paid homage to Izikhotane culture through dance and by pouring Ultra Mel custard on the runway.

Back home, the crowd erupted when the performance was recreated at the festival. Addressing critics who questioned whether Izikhotane culture represents South Africa, Ngxokolo said the choice was intentional.

“I think I’ve scratched a surface that is quite sensitive. I’m a very intentional person, deliberate and brave in my stances. I knew there would be some form of talkability around it, but for me, it’s more about education,” he said.

He added: “Cultures borrow from each other, that’s what I’m trying to show. Izikhotane borrowed from Italians because of the aspirational lifestyle associated with them - being pristine, detail-oriented, and confident in their charisma.”

Ngxokolo said his latest collection follows a similar approach, aiming to demonstrate that South Africa is a melting pot of cultures that can be brought together.

“The collection is a blend of different South African cultures into a modernised representation,” he said.

He cited the AmaPedi culture as an example: “I borrowed elements from dresses used in bridal ceremonies, but not in an obvious way. We added a more contemporary and commercial twist - something you could wear to work, not just traditional ceremonies.”

Ngxokolo explained that during his creative process, he realised that traditional attire often exists in silos, with each culture having a distinct and separate aesthetic. His vision, he said, is to bring those worlds together.

Hairstylist Bonolo Gabuza of Creme of Nature said the team incorporated South African identity by telling stories through the models’ hairstyles. These included cornrows, ponytails, asymmetrical styles, and braids shaped into the letters M, X, and K, representing the festival.

“Hair is how you show up. It reflects your roots, your DNA, your pride. It’s important to use platforms like this to showcase African hair and African identity,” Gabuza said.

Meanwhile, bold pink blush defined the models’ makeup. Lead artist Mokgadi Shogole said the look drew inspiration from the 1980s.

“If you look at makeup trends lately, it’s all about dopamine - bright, expressive colours. The 80s influence is coming back. We also drew from the 60s with the lashes - both top and bottom - inspired by the Twiggy style that opens up the eye,” she said.

Ngxokolo said the driving force behind his brand is the preservation of culture.

“The preservation we’re doing today will be in anthropology books in 50 or 100 years. Future generations will look back and appreciate it. When we travel abroad, we feel seen because our ancestors prepared the way,” he said.